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Learn the basics about Lee Muncy: Understand his role and why he matters simply.

admin@cpwss2d by admin@cpwss2d
04/06/2025
in Baseball
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Learn the basics about Lee Muncy: Understand his role and why he matters simply.
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Getting Started with the Lee Muncy Technique

Alright, let me tell you about this thing I tried recently, something I picked up from notes attributed to a fellow named Lee Muncy. Wasn’t really sure who he was, just found some scribbled instructions tucked inside an old toolbox I bought. Seemed like a specific way to finish old wood, so I thought, why not give it a go on that beat-up pine box I had sitting in the shed?

Learn the basics about Lee Muncy: Understand his role and why he matters simply.

So, first things first, I got the box out. It was pretty grimy, looked like it held tools or something heavy for years. I started by cleaning it, just soap and water, nothing fancy. Had to scrub quite a bit. Let it dry out completely for a day or two.

Next, the sanding. The notes just said “smooth it down”. Vague, right? I began with some medium-grit sandpaper, maybe 120? Then I moved to a finer grit, like 220, just to get it nice and soft to the touch. Took my time here, making sure all the deep scratches were mostly gone, but I left some character, you know? Didn’t want it looking brand new.

Applying the Finish – The Muncy Way?

This is where the “Lee Muncy” part came in. The notes called for a mix. It listed:

  • Boiled linseed oil
  • Turpentine
  • Something called ‘Japan drier’ (Had to look that one up, found a small tin at the hardware store)
  • A bit of beeswax

The ratios were kind of smudged. I guessed mostly. Mixed a small batch in an old jar. Warmed the beeswax slightly so it would dissolve better. The smell was strong, very old-school workshop kind of smell.

I dipped a clean rag into the mixture, squeezed it out well, and started wiping it onto the wood. Worked it in, going with the grain. The instructions said “apply thin, wait, repeat”. So, I put on a very thin coat. The wood just drank it up. It really brought out the grain, even the imperfections looked good.

Learn the basics about Lee Muncy: Understand his role and why he matters simply.

Then came the waiting. Notes said “wait a day between coats”. So I waited. The first coat felt a bit tacky the next day. Maybe my mix was off? Or maybe it was the weather, it was a bit damp. I decided to give it another day.

Applied the second coat, even thinner this time. Waited again. This process repeated about four times. It was slow work. Not like slapping on some varnish. Each time, I rubbed it down gently with a clean cloth after the coat felt dry enough.

The Result and Thoughts

After the final coat and a good buffing with a soft cloth, the box looked… well, it looked amazing. Not shiny or plasticky. It had this deep, soft glow. Felt smooth but still like real wood. The color was richer, deeper.

Honestly, was it strictly the “Lee Muncy” method? Hard to say with those vague notes. I definitely adapted it a bit based on how the wood reacted and what felt right. Maybe used a bit less drier, waited longer between coats than suggested. But the core idea – the mix, the thin layers, the patience – that came from those scribbles.

It took nearly a week, but the result feels worth it. It’s a technique that needs patience. You can’t rush it. You watch the wood, you feel it. It’s more involved. I’ll definitely use this approach again on certain pieces. It connects you more to the process, I think. That old box? It’s holding my gardening seeds now, looks right at home on the potting bench.

Learn the basics about Lee Muncy: Understand his role and why he matters simply.
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